This is a simple way to prospect for gold in a creek. The two main things that you will need are a 4 inch solid Big-O pipe and a creek that has some drop, about a foot for every eight to fifteen feet of run would be best. The length of pipe is not important, but should be between 15 feet and 100 feet and it should not have any holes in it because air stops it from working. This method of prospecting uses the same basic principle as your dad used when he syphoned gas from his neighbours car when he was a teenager, it works on gravity. I've used this method for about 3 years now and have done well catching gold ranging up to about half a gram in size. In the video I am shown banging the pipe with my hand to shake the gold and gravels down to the bucket, but a stick works best for jarring the gold loose from the pipe insides.
In general the pipe should have rounded ridges instead of overly square ones, each manufacturer has their own style and you just have to look around for the rounded ridge styled 4 inch non perferated Big-O piping that fits this discription in order to have your best success. The main points of making this gold dredging system workable are as follows: The pipe can have no holes or breaks in it anywhere, a suction hose really does not operate with air leaks entering it.
The best way to start this suction dredge is to duct tape a 4'' end cap to the output end of the pipe, which by the way is layed out down below the input as you can imagine is the only way gravity will work in your favour. Then tape a fist sized rock to the input end of the pipe and place it in the creek or puddle that you hope to dredge, this will stop the input end from floating. To start the system you could do a few different things to fill the pipe with water such as pouring water into the pipe or lowering the pipe into the pond/creek and lifting it up over and over again until the pipe appears to be mostly full. At which point, go down to the output end of the pipe and remove the end cap thus starting the pipe water flow. I should note at this point that you should create an air trap in the last foot of pipe by kinking the pipe so that it has a small dip of 6 inches in it, this will prevent air from entering the suction pipe from the output. Trust me, this step is mandatory! Also if you have good suction you will notice that the input end will create a vortex and thus will try to suck in air from there as well, to solve this simply keep the input at least a foot below the surface of the water surface. And as if you need more instruction . . . watch the output carefully once you've started the pipe flow to see if air is gradually being pulled from the pipe, this is normal and you should wait until all the air has escaped from the pipe in order to get your best stable flow rate.
In general, never lift your suction end out of the water, I know that seems obvious but honestly, we all accidently do it and it will stop your pipe from working properly. Finally, it is also recommended that you extract pay gravels at a modest rate, which all depends on how much head (drop) you have on your system. If you pull too much gravel too quickly you will create blockages in your pipe in the forms of gravel and sand bars, you could also create a large enough pile of waste gravel at the end of your pipe that it too will stop your pipe because it blocks the exit.
Again, the system is really simple it really only uses a 4 inch non perferated Big-O pipe, and a 4 inch end cap and some duct tape for the above mentioned applications. I use about 20 feet of pipe in most cases and usually never more than 50 feet unless I'm shooting a video like this. It's really a cheap idea, less than $25 in most cases but it has it's down sides, like always avoiding air intake. The art of the whole thing is to also be able to judge an exceptible location for the lay of your pipe that allows for enough drop to create a good flow of pay gravels but not so much that ALL of the gravels are washed straight through, and out of the end of your pipe. You should end up with a 5 gallon bucket full of material at the end which will work down to a couple gold pans worth of black sands and gold content if done right. Ohh and also, tha green thing in the intake of the hose is a 4 inch coupler, it's main purpose was to not allow any rock over 3 1/2 inches to enter the pipe and thus prevent blockages. I also use rope occasionally to tie the pipe to the creek just because it will gradually wiggle downstream, but a pile of rocks around the pipe can do the same thing. Whewww, lots of words ehh?
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