How to troubleshoot and repair a non-working temperature gauge on a first generation #Toyota Tacoma. This is a 2001 model equipped with the 3.4L V6 and a similar procedure may also apply to the third generation 4Runner. This is a fairly common problems on these trucks, I did have mine fixed for a bit and then it started acting up again. Mine started out as the needle going to half way right on start up, even when the engine was cold. When the truck was running or the key was on, it was stay at this position and never move. After replacing the sensor, it was fine for a bit, then it completely stopped working, and the odd time the needle would move to half way. #ToyotaTacoma
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-multimeter
-jumper wire with spade connector
-spade connector
-socket set
-phillips screwdriver
-cardboard
-electronic's cleaner/protectant
Procedure:
You can isolate the issue at the start to determine if it’s a sensor or wiring and gauge cluster. Disconnecting the sensor, just pull off the connection. I have made a jumper wire which can be connected to a ground source.
The key will need to be on in the truck to activate the cluster, then touch the wire on a ground source. The gauge should move up to the top, the sensor acts as a variable source, using the jumper wire just acts as an on/off switch. Try multiple ground sources, this can be the engine, firewall bolts, or even the negative battery terminal. If the gauge only moves partway or doesn’t move at all, there could be an issue with the connector, wiring, or gauge. If it moves all the wire, then there’s a sensor issue.
To test with a multimeter, with the key in the on position, probe the connection. The positive probe on the wire and the negative on the battery terminal. Battery voltage should be present here. If not, then there’s an issue with the wiring or connector.
The sensor can be tested, this would be the same as testing the ECU temp sensor. Its resistance can be measured and the reading would depend on its temperature. You can put it in hot or cold water to see it’s fluctuation.
If it’s a cluster issue, this is a bit of work disassembling the dash and removing the gauge cluster. The issue at the cluster can either be a corded connector or the nuts are loose for the connections on the rear of the temperature gauge. When the cluster is out, inspect the electrical connector connections on the gauge cluster.
The cluster will have snap clips around which need to be disengaged to pull the lens assembly off. Use a standard screwdriver to push down the cluster, then push in to pop it apart slightly. Use little pieces of folded over cardboard to hold it open. And finally the lens assembly can be removed.
To remove the temperature gauge, it needs to come out for the repair, there are 3 phillips screws on the rear. Once those phillips screws are out, then you can remove the gauge assembly. Pull out slightly to help out the temperature gauge. The temperature face needs to be pulled away from alignment pins, then directed out of its location.
One the back there are four nuts, these do come loose over time and will eventually cause a broken connection. Mine were loose enough where I could spin them off by hand. Removing the nuts and washers to inspect the connections for any corrosion. You can even remove the circuit board, just make sure you don’t mix up its orientation.
When done, reinstall the circuit board in the correct orientation. Install the washers with nuts and tighten. Don’t over tighten the connections as you can damage the connections and circuit board. Put the gauge back into place. Then install and tighten the three phillips screws on the rear.
The same issue also applies to the fuel gauge and mine were loose, however, my fuel gauge was still functioning fine. Use the same process for the fuel gauge removal too.
Reassembly is in reverse of disassembly. A test can be done before assembling everything else, reconnect the battery and start the truck. Then reassemble the rest of the dash in reverse of removal.
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