For Autumn/Winter 2015 Neil Barrett translates his trademark razor-sharp cutting into fluid masculine fabrics and knits, creating a sense of ease and softness within the staple garments of a man’s wardrobe.
Silhouettes are soft on the shoulder, but still precise. Traditional menswear fabrics like Lodens, double-face cashmeres and Shetlands are woven to create weightlessness. The palette revolves around tones of Loden, moss and black, off-white, grey-marl and sandstone. Inspiration is taken from traditional military tailoring and the key proponent is knitwear, utilised to allow silhouettes to relax.
The archetypes of menswear - the jean-jacket, the bomber, the tuxedo, the Crombie coat and the DB jacket - are all offered in knit variations, as is the signature Neil Barrett sweatshirt. Suits and coating are comprised of knitted fabrics, tuxedos updated with track pants with an alpaca tuxedo stripe.
Craft knits - Fair Isle, Aran, Novegian, Argyle - are given a new contemporary interpretations. Fair Isle designs are bonded in relief to sweaters, argyles engineered around the body, and trompe l’oeil cable knit prints blur the boundaries of knit and woven. The collection’s key decorative motif, an explosive Pop Art “Kaboom”, is used as a graphic device on shirts and leather and as appliqué across sweaters and short Harrington jackets, bringing together the collection’s key textiles.
Hybrid garments illustrate the collections fusion of formal and casual. A parka is fused to a classic Crombie through needle punching, while layered bomber and coats are in fact single garments. Tailored outwear features exaggerated front vents, to allow hands to reach into the pockets without disrupting the line of the garments, a technical experiment in combining a casual gesture with the rigours of cut.
The key footwear takes inspiration from the two poles of British attire: the Military and the Punk. Weighty boots and derbies are pierced at the vamp and heel with rings and bars of metal, the sole raised on a plateau and studded with hobnails.
Modernising tradition, creating new classics. Neil Barrett looks back to his roots: to his history in British tailoring and to the immediately-identifiable icons of the Barrett wardrobe, and gives both a new perspective and fresh ease for Autumn/Winter 2015.
Негізгі бет Тәжірибелік нұсқаулар және стиль Neil Barrett Autumn Winter 2015 Menswear Show
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