NEIL BARRETT FALL/WINTER 2016 MENSWEAR
For Fall/Winter 2016, Neil Barrett looks to his own past - personal and professional - to design an intimate, private and resolutely real wardrobe for his man. Inspired by his own British childhood, the collection proposes not a look, but a wardrobe, of classic items given a dynamic sense of the modern and contemporary.
Athleticism and suiting are the twin poles of this collection, designed for day with no sense of formality, or constriction. Garments are immediately familiar: car coats and pea-coats; anoraks; Harrington bombers and biker jackets; zipped sports tops, sweaters, shorts and t-shirts. They form the core vocabulary of menswear - of the past, and of today.
However, Neil Barrett proposes new takes on these classics, toying with construction and proportion, fusing garments together, taking something old to create something new. Raised waists elongate legs, torsos are reduced by abbreviated jackets and knitwear. Track-pants are tailored, in suiting fabrics or signature sweatshirting, with an emphatic high waist. Footwear riffs on core masculine styles: the athletic plimsole sneaker, with a purposefully aged finish; a crepe-soled derby or Chelsea boot with steel toe-caps.
Different fabrics, garments and themes are melded together and slightly twisted. Shearling lines cut macro-scale Prince of Wales check; anoraks, biker jackets and blazers are elongated, fused with coating, creating a trompe l’oeil of layering. Athletic flashes of contrast colour are inserted into Harrington bombers and tailored coats, as well as knitted tops; trousers come with go-faster stripes on their side seams. The mix of sports and suits, in outfits and single garments, reflects the versatility of a contemporary wardrobe.
Construction and fabric technologies are resolutely twenty-first century, injecting the classic with a sense of modernity and practicality. Crease-resistant knits in nylons and techno-fabrics update archive sportswear; outerwear is deceivingly light-weight.
Nostalgia inspires a vague touch of the seventies - the colour palette of bittersweet chocolate and walnut alongside classic greys and blacks, livened with shots of electric blue, yellow and red - soccer jersey shades.
Inspired by memories of his childhood in Devon, Barrett patches hawks and eagles, photographed on the Dartmoor moorlands, across tailoring, sportswear and signature sweatshirts.
A strong focus on aged leathers and shearling recall the earliest collections but are now lighter, sleeker, geared to a new contemporaneity, an evolution of the Neil Barrett aesthetic.
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