I was out on that giant day in the 69 swell when Nuuhiva and a couple other guys were out. I jumped off the seawall right into the slamming wave and rode the backwash out and barely made it during a lull between sets. At first I just paddled into the lineup and over to the point till I saw a guy waving at me to hurry up and get outside in the direction of the oil piers. Then a set started coming in. It was huge. The first waves were at least triple overhead and I barely made it over them but then I had to really scramble much further outside because the bigger waves of the set were charging in and they were just awesome. I was exhausted ~ My arms were like rubber bands but I didn't stop paddling. I was on a homemade 7 foot 6 inch~ wide tail with a narrow fin that hummed everytime I turned. I had to rest for at least a half hour after paddling out and the sets just got bigger and bigger and we all paddled out again and again each time they came. Some said that it was 20 feet. I watched a guy take off on a set wave in a late takeoff and when he hit the bottom looking good at first ~ His board broke from the impact. He went through it like nothing. I was mid way in the lineup and nobody was out at the indicator. I got about 4 waves that day and the guys who gave me a ride would not go out and they said they saw that guy's board get destroyed on the sea wall. The waves were washing over the highway and they had to move the van to safety to the opposite side of the highway. My first big wave day. I think I was 17.
@johnlane9743
Жыл бұрын
wow - this is vintage surf art - love the color commentary - makes for a very special experience of a exceptional era - well done !
@nickandmikec
10 жыл бұрын
I loved watching Mickey Dora surf. He was an amazing surfer. I don't care if he was difficult. I always stayed out of his way. He was legendary.
@jan8742
6 ай бұрын
i dont get it… he looks like a mediocre longboarder in this clip
@SkyPilot54
11 жыл бұрын
We used to ditch school -- elementary school in Summerland and hitch a ride with Jeff White to Rincon - uh 63 -- good times
@crndl1
11 жыл бұрын
"Embryonic Journey"...Jorma Kaukonen playing on the Airplane record Surrealistic Pillow...classic
@surferpam1
11 жыл бұрын
The song is "Embryonic Journey" by Jefferson Airplane.
@fredloos6998
2 жыл бұрын
We would go there in the late 60s to clam and get mussels at low tide. I remember watching the surfers in awe. Later on, I started surfing it and one night stands out. I was driving back to college (San Diego State, 75) and it was a full moon. Must have been the fall and as we made the turn, we could see perfect 4-6 foot lines with an offshore. The house at the bottom of the cove had a spotlight back then on the water. We pulled over on 101, and went out. It was fantastic, surfed until about midnight all by ourselves. Magic.
@mcmcmc1
Жыл бұрын
Unforgettable kind of thing
@seancallahan1312
Жыл бұрын
Peak experience. I'm glad you got to live that. I've had em, too.
@patrickclark1000
2 жыл бұрын
Been coming back to this video for, oh, 10 years or so. Me and this video have been through a lot together.
@natehawesvideo
10 ай бұрын
Funny how certain videos stay with you
@nickandmikec
10 жыл бұрын
An incredible athlete. So much a part of the 60s. He was always at Malibu, mid-Sixties. I was lucky to have been around to watch him surf.
@briseboy
8 жыл бұрын
COuldn't have run over you had you not taken off in front of him. Very definition of kook.
@nickandmikec
8 жыл бұрын
William Phinizy Yea, maybe so, but Kemp and the others were not Dora.
@wasabiginger6993
Жыл бұрын
My dad took 8mm footage of him & Fain at Malibu and sure wish I had that to share here!
@richardconner15
6 жыл бұрын
Best day I have ever surfed was at Rincon,about this size.Been all over the world,only got dialed into the perfect wave once,here at RINCON.
@jiroblue
11 жыл бұрын
Jeff Ho & Wayne Inoue are so smooth and stylish!
@ronaldmansfield.6439
23 сағат бұрын
Dora was the king of surfing back in the day.
@clarkewi
12 жыл бұрын
Excellent narration. Truly captures the era. I can smell the buds.
@tr7b410
6 ай бұрын
One of the best waves I had ever surfed ,& I have been to Mexico Hawaii-Malibu 2nd reef was Rincon 1 early morning during a big north swell.
@MurrayEstes
9 жыл бұрын
Thanks so much for this. ....
@imjustpassinthru
13 жыл бұрын
Great narration and a lot of experience and history to back it up.
@spd13062
12 жыл бұрын
Excellent footage!
@wasabiginger6993
Жыл бұрын
Mahalo Nui for sharing this treasure of a video along with perfect commentary
@rickteasley2237
27 күн бұрын
Some of my older surfer friends told the stories of ethe once a century swells of '69 in Huntington Beach... I was just getting into it so... and Surfer Magazine
@markshields9071
7 жыл бұрын
All I can say is fusk yes you guys were heavy ! nice video, commentary and surfing soul...
@michaelreed1186
Күн бұрын
great footage
@Sidetrackification
3 жыл бұрын
Excellent! Thanks
@calfolk7381
4 жыл бұрын
Dora’s ashes were scattered off a trail in the Montecito hills, just minutes from this fabled point
@helloitsmehb
3 ай бұрын
That poor trail. I wish I could send it a sympathy card.
@surfdetective
5 жыл бұрын
"dora alone with his thoughts" is a scary proposition
@218maryland
5 жыл бұрын
Before the wavejets and cheeseball kooks, there was this...
@clarkewi
13 жыл бұрын
So cool. Really captures the era. All peace and love....yeah, right.....
@arikij
13 жыл бұрын
The good old days at Rincon....thank you Kevin Law..
@mozdickson
11 жыл бұрын
muchly enjoyed
@tomk1tl
6 жыл бұрын
Dora "da Cat".....R.I.P. Miki !
@colindominy
13 жыл бұрын
The immortal Bob Cooper lives today on the NSW North Coast, Australia. Still up at Coffs Harbour, I believe ? Man .. this entire clip sure brings back some great memories ... fantastic ...
@bristleconepinus2378
3 жыл бұрын
i remember him riding Malibu on that rainbow pigmented board, good guy.
@cristianocastro722
5 жыл бұрын
Amazing
@stevedexter-ns7qj
Ай бұрын
Look up footage of. Dec. 25, 2000. Exhilarating and terrifying all at once especially on a 7'-8" fun shape. Exploding cannons!
@tinfoilhatplumber485
Ай бұрын
I got a hold of some classic Hal Jepson stuff he signed for me before he died
@kevinkakadelas6592
9 ай бұрын
Wayne Innoya I spent time on the north shore surfing with him. Good surfer ping pong player and a great guy
@lorenzo6mm
4 жыл бұрын
The 'Con......I remember the OG's with their pot bellies and their long white beards ripping on a broken 1/2 a long board in the early 1970's. No cords and dive suits. Those we're the Days My Friend.
@moromoro2163
7 жыл бұрын
In a world of slaves, anybody who's free looks crazy.
@sunovadistributionn.z.693
4 жыл бұрын
never truer than in lockdown ;)
@WhiteNacho
5 жыл бұрын
I lived on Bates Road from 1974 to 1979 I rode nothing but Greg Liddle eggs.
@calfolk7381
4 жыл бұрын
I owned a few myself. This past week in Oxnard I saw two different people with Liddles. One was a 6 foot egg, and the other was 6’10”. Weird. Not a decent point break around here for miles lol
@WhiteNacho
4 жыл бұрын
@@calfolk7381 Yeah but ya have some really good beach breaks!
@calfolk7381
4 жыл бұрын
Whitenacho you know it!
@WhiteNacho
4 жыл бұрын
@@calfolk7381 Hey is that your song "Illusions" ? It's pretty darn good!
@calfolk7381
4 жыл бұрын
It is @ Whitenacho. Thank you very much. I wrote it for the “ high frequency tribe”. They are the subscriber base to Malibu surfer/KZitemr, Hamish Patterson, aka “ the Illusion” KZitem channel. Check it out sometime.
@EddyTeetree
5 жыл бұрын
Dora was groovy man that’s an ace memory
@warplanner3258
5 жыл бұрын
..he was an asshole and, yes, I was one of the kooks he used to shove around at Malibu. Great surfer but just an annoying butt plug who could bring down a really nice day at State Street, Trancas, Malibu, Latigo, and all points North. Want to know the definition of "bummer"? Imagine you're surfing Secos (Leo Carillo) on a warm day with a slight Santa Ana blowing out of the canyon and the waves are just perfect. Everyone takes their turn from behind the big rock and having a grand old time. Then this dickwad shows up and drops into every wave he can; 100% distilled selfish entitlement. I saw him clean out Secos one day like that because he thought his shit did not stink. Glad he's dead!
@tubopedia
9 ай бұрын
I can’t imagine how relatively empty these line ups were
@chrisyonts5975
6 жыл бұрын
The song at 02:20 is "On With The Show" by The Rolling Stones.
@ronaldabrams1147
Жыл бұрын
Dora you lived the life
@kriscarlow6057
6 жыл бұрын
Is this available on DVD? I recall seeing Jamie, at Vintage Board Collector meets, and he had an online presence. If anyone has an extra copy... I would be stoked to purchase!
@lorenzo6mm
4 жыл бұрын
Michael Peterson is "The Legend" in the surfing World. Terry Fitzgerald and Michael Peterson. Peter Townend. Simon Anderson. Dick Brewer. Jerry Lopez. Rory Russel. These are some of my favorite people in the surfing world.
@fernandomaron87
3 жыл бұрын
Sorry, but Duke Kahanamoku is "The Legend", i love MP, but THE legendary surfer, that was Duke.
@lorenzo6mm
3 жыл бұрын
@@fernandomaron87 Pardon me. No disrespect to the Duke. MP is IN FACT a Legend amongst Modern Surfers and the breakout of Modern professional surfing which the Australians we're prome movers of. The Australians changed everything for better and/or for worse for native Hawaiians. And, the Australians still crank out lots of really good surfers and swimmers The origen of the 'Australian Crawl' aka Free Style aka American Crawl.
@richardbates1
2 жыл бұрын
I have to give tribute to David Nuuhiwa. One of the most graceful and beautiful surfers to watch of all time. He was ballet on water!!!
@jimmyslade6754
Жыл бұрын
@@fernandomaron87 sorry but the duke was a kook. Did NOT bring surfing to Australia. Surfed a nothing beach and claimed it… no way
@nooneinteresting461
7 жыл бұрын
I watched this video because my grandma Dora rincon rest in peace grandma
@saintchristophertwo
5 жыл бұрын
rip
@slayerkhan
6 жыл бұрын
I'm proud to say I've surfed Rincon mor ethan the guy who taught me to surf, who had a 20 years or so head start on me, lol. Some people just have more wanderlust I guess.
@jeffm5939
10 жыл бұрын
Moran Caru from the Tijuana slew. Funny!
@mijknahs
12 жыл бұрын
@ChessieSystemE645 Embryonic Journey by Jefferson Airplane (played by Jorma Kaukonen)
@davidanderson8469
Ай бұрын
More sand like everywhere back then.
@littlefamilydistro
Жыл бұрын
Anyone know where to find more old footage of Jeff ho?
@wavepainter
12 жыл бұрын
Embryonic Journey....Jefferson Airplane and Hot Tuna....Jorma Kaukonen
@goonsquad2.023
4 жыл бұрын
Jeff Ho -- the Godfather of Dogtown!!!
@ryanleekinney8975
4 жыл бұрын
Backyard dock. Straight down
@vaughnsigal4560
5 жыл бұрын
Anyone know where the full film is?
@JimChangg
2 жыл бұрын
Where can I find the rest of this?!?
@clarkewi
4 жыл бұрын
I saw a poor guy almost get killed in the El Nino's of 1997. He couldn't get out of the "Seawall Shorepound" and it was still high tide (but dropping). The poor guy paddled his ass off and got out of the jam. Otherwise the only way out would have been to drift down to La Conchita. Which probably would not have worked out as the waves were huge. (the cove was MT it was so big).
@drewnolan96
Жыл бұрын
That happened to me this winter. Hectic. What is MT? I saw the cove closing out this year Jan 5 7pm 2023. It had a left bombie connecting into closout adjacent to normal takeoff. You can see the reef on soundings maps.
@superorangeish
Жыл бұрын
Man ,the California coast line is a thing of extreme beauty but those oil platforms are horrendous.😥
@toycoon
12 жыл бұрын
@ChessieSystemE645 It sounds a little like Canned Heat or Country Joe & the Fish.
@greenroomdude
12 жыл бұрын
Merangue Caroo from the Tijuana slew....
@N0VANITY
12 жыл бұрын
Whats the first song?
@sbnqy
5 жыл бұрын
If you think miki was a character you should check out MP Micheal Peterson. Kirra legend with a back story straight out of a movie
@lorenzo6mm
4 жыл бұрын
Michael Peterson is "The Legend" in the surfing World. Terry Fitzgerald and Michael Peterson. Peter Townend. Simon Anderson. Dick Brewer. Jerry Lopez. Rory Russel. These are some of my favorite people in the surfing world.
@matthewwillis4892
3 жыл бұрын
Hey Scott where's that old footage of Nuuhiwa on a fish at C-street?
@idanrayten
12 жыл бұрын
@ChessieSystemE645 Jefferson Airplane - Embryonic Journey
@SURFSTYLEY4
12 жыл бұрын
@ChessieSystemE645 Jefferson Airplane i think
@johnkayak5488
4 жыл бұрын
Surfstyle4 Think early Rod Stewart with The Faces backing him up. Twead Coast NSW.
@ryanleekinney8975
4 жыл бұрын
Hey will
@bristleconepinus2378
6 ай бұрын
Who's the goofy foot? he's good
@johnsmith-oz5kj
Ай бұрын
Could Miki Dora fight? Because he really needed to have his ass kicked.
@static-remission27
3 жыл бұрын
Is this a long story anybody that grew up in beach towns nose of the story that you can't grow up and you put your bored by the road while go to buy the road now
@DrExcitement
10 жыл бұрын
Isn't it pronounced "ring-kon", not "rin-kon"?
@briseboy
8 жыл бұрын
Spanish, means corner. rin-con del mar is the full name
@timpani1950
6 жыл бұрын
Dora was overrated as a surfer, and under reported as a scammer who ripped off his friends. Skip Frye was a much better stylist in the same time period.
@sbnqy
5 жыл бұрын
Shan Timothy didn’t skip rip off a lot of skate groms etc?
@marekbokota5524
Ай бұрын
Edipus theory
@JuanOmegaIota
9 жыл бұрын
Don't see why you think it's ok to copy Scott Star's work and post it on you tube as your own, poser.
@CameronC.
6 жыл бұрын
Alien Trailerpark doing him a favor to get it out there so i can watch it
Пікірлер: 116