Ready for the next level? This week I’m working on No 2 totes and when we’re dealing with planes that are worth hundreds of dollars, you don’t just jump in and start slinging glue.
Two items worth explaining - first, my technique for closing the joint. If you’re a woodworker then you’re already balking at my surface pep because everything we’ve been taught says “flat surfaces and good contact, followed by a clamp” is what makes for a good joint. In this case, the objective is the hide the seam. So, if all of my clamp pressure is applied to the very perimeter, I can get a super tight joint. The epoxy is going to bond (set) because it’s a chemical reaction. It’s in the pores of the wood, and it will cure before I remove my clamp. I’ll even go so far as to say “I don’t care if there’s no glue around the perimeter because the majority of the joint is saturated in epoxy”.
Second, I’m peeling my squeeze-out with a tiny chisel before it’s fully cured. Something I do on the high dollar stuff or the repairs that retain their patina or labels. If you let it fully cure and then try to sand it or scrape it, you run the risk of affecting the original finish. Not a problem if you’re stripping the entire project or doing a total makeover.
Enjoy, and thanks for watching!
Gordon
Негізгі бет Stanley No2 Tote Repair - advanced level
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