This is the kind of crowdsourced information that is a great way for everyone to learn
@3DMusketeers
Жыл бұрын
76 episodes deep and not stopping!
@rossc12345
Жыл бұрын
The open sharing of knowledge is one of the things I ❤️ about 3D printing
@3DMusketeers
Жыл бұрын
Open source is how we all grow. Walled gardens keep innovation at bay.
@rossc12345
Жыл бұрын
@@3DMusketeers aimed at a particular printer manufacturer????? 🤣
@3DMusketeers
Жыл бұрын
why would I EVERRRRRRR do that?!?!
@dvlaserworks893
Жыл бұрын
Always great to see you in a video! Gives me a better understanding on any and all of my failures! Thanks again!
@3DMusketeers
Жыл бұрын
I mean, on this channel it has always been me in the videos ha ha!
@dvlaserworks893
Жыл бұрын
@@3DMusketeers I only noticed the cat...LOL
@dvlaserworks893
Жыл бұрын
Seriousness aside...you put out great info. I am glad I found your channel.
@3DMusketeers
Жыл бұрын
LOL the cat does always make videos better! I concur
@awilliams1701
Жыл бұрын
yeah that's a vape battery. I modeled the case identically (more or less) off the case I have, but that case is old and barely still in one piece. I could try a print in place, but I've never done that before. So I'm not sure what the tolerances are. This is actually my model. I did just get the PP in, but now I have a 3 day multi-color print in progress. It did say it can warp, but it sounds like it's far less susceptible than nylon. The printer is in its own room. The fan is off. So hopefully that will be good enough. I do have a plastic bin I could put over it if it still doesn't work. But hopeing this will work. YEs I could buy a new case, but making one sounded like fun. So why not? lol I did put the nylon in a vacuum sealed bag and it is REALLY vacuumed along with some decicant so if I want to use it again I can. So in 3 days, we'll see how this goes. lol
@3DMusketeers
Жыл бұрын
You can run a tolerance test to find out, but normally 0.15mm is a good measure. Totally understand the ideology of making it yourself because you can!
@agreen9831
Жыл бұрын
Looking forward to the M5 video! been having a great time with my 2 M5s. but yeah, the only problems I've had (that weren't my own stupidity) were a couple of filament clogs.
@3DMusketeers
Жыл бұрын
Definitely looking forward to it as well.
@prongATO
Жыл бұрын
Man! 13.3k already! Looks like the channel is taking-off! Congrats and well deserved!
@3DMusketeers
Жыл бұрын
Definitely doing our best! It's not easy! Tons of content
@pkaronis1
Жыл бұрын
I have had 0 issues with my Bambu X1 Carbon.... I have had it for 3 months. I am new to 3D printing, so maybe I need more time to figure out what's good and bad with the machine. So far, it has run perfect and I get really good prints from it......
@3DMusketeers
Жыл бұрын
Yep it seems you either have a good experience or a very not good one.
@bigb69ti
Жыл бұрын
always good info
@3DMusketeers
Жыл бұрын
Thanks!
@frankenmint
Жыл бұрын
Hey grant, I went the sovol plus route, thanks dude! Now I'm on the quest to do a Good/cheap heated chamber
@3DMusketeers
Жыл бұрын
The Politician we are working on would solve this :) just need more time to work on it!
@thespectator2976
Жыл бұрын
Love yr channel m8 :) Much luv from Sweden
@3DMusketeers
Жыл бұрын
Thanks!
@rossc12345
Жыл бұрын
11:13 For the piggy bank looks like that’s some kind of silk PLA. I had a similar issue with silks partial clogging. For me it was a combination of too much retraction and heat creep. The filament was swelling just enough in the hotend to get stuck in the heat break and PTFE tube
@3DMusketeers
Жыл бұрын
Yep the swelling of silk can be a pain. It's not necessarily heat creep but more just how it expands as it cools
@rossc12345
Жыл бұрын
@@3DMusketeers I have a separate slicer profile in prusaslicer for silk PLA to prevent clogging. Slower print speed, less retraction distance, slower detracts and reduce extrusion multiplier by about 5% Also worth calibrating a linear/pressure advance value for silks and add m900 command to filament gcode. Especially on Bowden printers
@3DMusketeers
Жыл бұрын
100% agree!
@prongATO
Жыл бұрын
What Grant is referencing is creating a DNS reservation on the router. You identify and designate the MAC address of the wireless card in the printer and tell the router, anytime you “see” that MAC address, assign it X IP address. Either 192.168.x.x or 10.0.x.x
@3DMusketeers
Жыл бұрын
I'm going to trust that's right because I don't understand it and I know it's IT related lol.
@horzadome
Жыл бұрын
I've had the same pinda problem with my mini+ several times now. No idea what causes it, but the probe ends up being 5mm higher than ziptie height, which is where I always set it. My guess is that the cable twists with the rest of the cabling and slowly unscrews the pinda, possibly in combination with threads giving in at higher temps. But it's just a wild guess.
@3DMusketeers
Жыл бұрын
weird, have never had that happen, but I would concur, likely an odd wiring issue? Time to re run the wires?
@ulaB
Жыл бұрын
If Live-Z is close to -2mm, you need to move the probe UP! Moving the probe UP will result in it triggering later, with the nozzle closer to the bed, resulting in a less negative Live-Z.
@3DMusketeers
Жыл бұрын
ah crap, right, had that flipped in my head! Good catch! Man missed that in filming AND in review!
@ulaB
Жыл бұрын
@@3DMusketeers It's some kind of pet peeve of mine, after I did it wrong myself and hit prints with my sensor and after seeing people suggesting it the wrong way all the time, because it is so counter-intuitive :)
@3DMusketeers
Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the correction man! I appreciate it!
@GregTheNomad
Жыл бұрын
My wifi antenna mod was mentioned ... I had connectivity issues with stock antenna after the change no issues and yes I'd like to get the carbon i personally got the P1P for modding and P1P has connection issues i can't say it's the module or the antenna or both but for now my fix has worked
@3DMusketeers
Жыл бұрын
yes, nice job on that fix! No P1P for me at the moment though
@soundspark
Жыл бұрын
PP doesn't just warp but is also hard to get to stick to the bed.
@3DMusketeers
Жыл бұрын
yup! It hates sticking to most things
@shushuda
Жыл бұрын
Since you have so much experience with MK3S+ printers, may I ask for an advice? In general, I'm not overly happy with part cooling when printing PLA, never was, but now I feel it more since I've started printing more complicated models. I tend to print models that probably shouldn't be printed on an FDM and I use lots of silks, but... A lot of these models have parts that start on a support (I use snug, 3 top interface layers, 0.1 top Z distance). If the starting contact area is small, then the part often curls drastically and finally gets knocked over when the nozzle tries to print on it. I can't split those models nor rotate them. I'm trying to battle that by lowering the speed in those areas, but sometimes I have to set it ridiculously low. Other models have steep supported overhangs that curl and ruin the end finish, but at least the print succeeds. I might expect too much out of an FDM printer, but my friend recently got a Mini+ after my recommendation and when he prints those same models, they are of much higher quality in those problem areas. And he's using the same filament I use + stock settings, even his filament settings are completely stock. I've tried running stock, thinking PEBKAC, but it was way worse than my small setting changes. Is Mini that much better at cooling? I run a modified hotend, if that matters, but I always had these issues, even on stock - tungsten carbide nozzle, copper E3D heater block, titanium E3D heatbreak, stock heatsink. Both fans are stock, fan shroud is not warped. How can I improve part cooling in a MK3S+? Is there a custom shroud or a stronger fan I could print/buy? I've tried using organic supports, in case they could hold the part better, but they tend to generate weirdly for me, usually they try to combine multiple trees into a single trunk right at the base and then try to print midair once they reach the print, kinda inside that trunk. Maybe it's because I print small things and they go crazy, idk. Snug has been much better for my needs so far. I print a temp tower for every color I buy, calibration cubes for extrusion multiplier, retraction twin towers... I disable wipe while retracting for silk filaments, as that tends to scar the finish. I paint supports manually to improve stability and go over the print preview multiple times to ensure everything looks ok. I've tried lowering the temp, but it's not really helping and introduces other quality issues. The only thing that helps so far is lowering the speed significantly. But I don't wanna do that, I want to improve the cooling and print stock speeds. Help D:
@3DMusketeers
Жыл бұрын
With those upgrade parts you need to up the temp some. I find the MK3s has adequate cooling even with Diamond nozzles. Organic requires some tuning I think. I have had luck, but only on stock printers. send me an email and I will take a gander.
@shushuda
Жыл бұрын
@@3DMusketeers Hmm, why do you think I need to up the temp? Tungsten carbide nozzles are bought specifically to keep the same temps as for brass, they have very similar thermal conductivity. I bought it because I wanted a no-bullshit nozzle to print abrasives, but didn't want to modify my existing profiles. Current setup prints exactly the same as the stock one did. Or do you mean the other changes? I had to change the heater block to copper, because a lot of people had their TC nozzles unscrew themselves on stock alu heater block due to thermal expansion. The titanium heatbreak was bought to eliminate heat creep jams due to that 0.2mm step in the stock heatbreak. My issues with organic are visible on the slicing step, they just generate weirdly for me :D EDIT: Ah, I forgot to mention - my ambient is pretty high. As in, the printer sits next to me and I absolutely require room temps to be 23-25C due to some health issues. So I permanently print "in summer".
@3DMusketeers
Жыл бұрын
The tungsten does not, but the copper needs more heat. If you wanted a no BS nozzle may I recommend diamond ;) I had issues with Tungsten nozzles and copper blocks for whatever it may be worth.. Specifically with pla. The Copper needed to much heat that it would heat creep to the PLA. Email me so I can get an idea of the issues and let's go from there. I live in FL, Ambient is currently 27 in my office, I doubt it is an ambient thing.
@skynlab2478
Ай бұрын
about Bambu Lab got the same issue only with Kingroon PLA maybe the filament is wet ?
@3DMusketeers
Ай бұрын
Could be but it's unlikely.
@GetTheFOutOfMyWay
Жыл бұрын
Man, the back and forth about wet filament drying is so tiring. Watched a battlebots youtube channel (robert cowen) and he said wet filament could be the difference between good prints and great prints. Lol Either way definitely as before love the episodes (also love the KZitem shorts too!). Definitely looking forward to your upcoming content you hinted at in this episode!
@3DMusketeers
Жыл бұрын
Yes wet filament can make an okay print vs a great one, and certainly it matters more for strength, but unless it's a material like nylon, the water uptake is minimal.
@soundspark
Жыл бұрын
You say wet filament is harder than you think but didn't you also admit that nylon is pretty much a sponge?
@3DMusketeers
Жыл бұрын
yes, PLA and PETG do not get wet like people think, that is what I was getting at
@42436freak
Жыл бұрын
welp it happened i mangaged to destroy my pex plate on my bambu. Turns out if the check for the bed sticker doesn't redo the leveling. Which was done on a empty bed no plate sooo I ground the nozzle into my pex play and destroyed it. oddly enough the print completed and the printer is fine ? ? ? dunno how.
@3DMusketeers
Жыл бұрын
it should level and such before every print... What did you do?
@Falcon_Overland
Жыл бұрын
Hmmm my bambu lab is getting blocked in the extruder as well. Initially thought it was a clogged nozzle. Happens on the window frames of the benchy. Prusament petg-cf any ideas on how to fix it?
@3DMusketeers
Жыл бұрын
with a CF you want to run 0.6mm
@Falcon_Overland
Жыл бұрын
I was hoping for a bit more detail. It also jammed with my 0.6mm nozzle when it got to the window frames
@Falcon_Overland
Жыл бұрын
@@3DMusketeers okay can confirm the nozzle isn’t blocked just cleared the filament out of the extruder and printed without touching the nozzle. Printing fine for now, 10 layers into another benchy
@Falcon_Overland
Жыл бұрын
@@3DMusketeers I was printing at 15mm3 but now turned it down to 10mm3
@3DMusketeers
Жыл бұрын
oh, yeah 15 is too fast for the bambu for petg. CF only makes it worse. You need to limit to 12 max with petg, and a bit lower with CF PETG. Hope this helps. And I could give more detail, but often that does require me knowing what you have tried already, so we start with the basic solutions and work from there.
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