Oh perfect. Man, your channel rocks dude. Thank you so much for this! I have never built anything using this type of material and not knowing how to start will kill the DIY confidence and cost a ton of money buying things that you can build yourself with just a bit of know how. Also adding the alternative tools was a good idea. Cheers!
@grasthube
2 жыл бұрын
great video. another easier option than screws is using small rivet with a handheld riveter. their are really easy to put together, though they are hard to remove.
@leontaylor3572
6 жыл бұрын
this video is very nicely put together and easy to understand. I thank you for posting this. I subscribed and gave you a thumb.
@ilampaulino
7 жыл бұрын
Just confirming the ungrounded theory thing. You'll definitely get shocked if its conducting energy and it's not grounded. I've shocked myself enough to be sure :P
@frigginwizard
7 жыл бұрын
Do you know of a good place to get those metal wire hangers you used between the aluminum angle and the ratchet hangers?
@circle4922
6 жыл бұрын
I'm not sure all the screws we get here in Canada actually are robertson - I think some are the US version (square drive). When I happen to get some actual roberston screws to pair with my driver(s) it's awesome. Thanks for this DIY. It's trickier than I tought it would be; using a hacksaw and not being able to get square cuts is annoying as fuck to me. Hah. I might borrow a miter saw, or bring it somewhere to get cuts made.
@Miguelmigs24
5 жыл бұрын
Great video. I'm going to build a very similar one but with driverless cobs, you really scared me though with the shocking theory, specially when I'm gonna be building a straight to mains circuit. Is there a way I could ground the build to prevent shocking?
@growintux9304
6 жыл бұрын
Robertson for life. Cheers!
@LEDGardener
6 жыл бұрын
Testify
@sevensurvival
6 жыл бұрын
Excellent video, well done, and easy to overstand. thanks, and respect.......Seven Thunders///////
@terry9703
5 жыл бұрын
Simply run a grounded cable from the driver to the frame. Then however you make the connection to the lights, add a green ground cable from the ground of the lights to the the frame that you just built (just add another self tapping screw to the frame). And it is grounded.
@Sky.and.aubs01
5 жыл бұрын
Great video as usual. This has sparked my curiosity regarding building my own custom grow light setups, mainly for experimenting/fun. Now I am living off of Ramen noodles to pay for my addiction so thank you for that... What are your thoughts on supplementing in some 'red' cobs, (maybe 2 100w per 4 regular cobs), for a flowering light? I've recently jumped in bed with BloomBeast grow lights and for the first time I have finally matched the quantity portion of my control setup, which is a 600 HPS. I've definitely been able to beat the HPS using LEDs as far as quality of the buds go, but no matter what I've tried I could never compete with the HPS quantity results... until now. I ran a side-by-side setup with their 1600 series vs. a 1000 watt HPS in 5'x5' tents, same strain, same nutes and was very surprised to say the least (actually the HPS did win the quantity battle but it was a nail-biter victory this time). I want to believe that their red COBs mixed in with their standard LEDs was the missing link that contributed to the Beast holding its ground against the O.G. Grandaddy HPS. I've wasted a fortune on some top of the line LED lights that I bought new and re-sold after just one run due to the mediocre results I got (HLG 550, KIND K5, PlatinumLED 1200, So...currently I am building a light with 6 quantum boards and 4 red COBs that total 1000 watts total at the wall and see how that does against the 1000 watt HPS. (Now, running a 1000 watt HPS is not something I recommend in a 5'x5' tent as I basically had to create an F5 tornado for the ventilation setup to keep up with the heat output so I'm ditching the tents for this next run.) Do you think supplmenting red COBs into the mix is a worthwhile approach to pursue or do you think that would just be as useless as the 'G' in Lasagna? Looking forward to finish binge watching your videos and thanks in advance for any input you can share. :)
@braleyshardwoodcustoms8584
5 жыл бұрын
Brother I'm no expert but I do know this if u will go half of your gear in a 2700-3500k and the other half 4000k and place them accordingly everother one you will see some straight donkey slabs especially with that 550 ur talking about ,those Samsung diodes lm301b's go fed as a bitch ,beats all I've ever imagined and rock fucking solid slabs I mean . Truth is the warmer the Kelvin the harder the formation the cooler the Kelvin the better trichomes will produce so try out those numbers but a solid red cob is nothing but a money attention seeker to the audience for your bread but throw in a blurpel or two in the mix of the 550 and pump it up Alvin.
@connorschorah3495
6 жыл бұрын
what is the par to watt ratio? and how much did it cost to build? great vid
@SixthyGTi
5 жыл бұрын
Do CXB3590 running at some 50-60 watts need fans on this type of coolers? Mine (bought used) get pretty hot running with passive coolers like those...
@siayourcannaguy6106
6 жыл бұрын
how much did it all cost?
@mainegrower
7 жыл бұрын
my next one ill build to get the exact light placement I want.
@LEDGardener
7 жыл бұрын
Sweet. I haven't worked a lot with metal but ended up really enjoying this build.
@theophrastus9029
6 жыл бұрын
I would think using a carbon fiber type of material that doesn't conduct heat would be ideal. Also a way to expand heat sinks
@craftsvision
4 жыл бұрын
I am building something similar. I got some good ideas from your video. but I want to ask what is the watt of each of these 4 COB, volts? and what power watts/mah driver you used to power 4 COB together?
@northendgaming3831
4 жыл бұрын
Citizen 048 1212 cobs are 50w cobs. He mentions they are what he is using at the start of the video, I use them in my veg tent. Great cobs for the price!
@kewldood26
3 жыл бұрын
I LOVE YOU! YOU SIRRR ARE DA MAN ;)
@The_Autoculturalist
4 жыл бұрын
Thats not cheating! That's being equipped and prepared lol.
@The_Autoculturalist
4 жыл бұрын
Wait.... America doesnt use robertson...
@circle4922
6 жыл бұрын
I should probably figure this out on my own but.. About the grounding issue when remotely wiring the driver; why isn't this an issue with the ol' HID ballasts? They're remotely wired. Is it because the cable/wire you used to lengthen/extend the driver's cord *doesn't have* a ground wire (or wire to be used as ground, ie: green/bare)? I'm just wondering why you couldn't extend the driver's cord using a cord that has a conductor that you could use to ground it at the frame, say via a screw through a ring terminal at that ground wire's end at the frame. And then the other end connected to the driver (obviously?) at it's ground wire conductor...or does the driver even have one? PS: where'd you find the angle aluminum? Thanks Man! -EDIT: If my thought is wrong and/or there *isn't* a lead on the driver to run a ground wire (in a cable) to the frame..I suppose you could just run a conductor from the frame of the driver to the frame and run it along the extending cable (but preferably inside it..right?) using self-tappers or a machine screw and bolt or something? I duno :)
@LEDGardener
6 жыл бұрын
Not sure about the HID. With these drivers though, if you're running remotely and extending your cable, you'd be extending the output side of the driver which just has the positive and negative DC. I agree - you could run an additional conductor along with it and bolt it to the frame, then tie the other end somehow to the driver ground.
@circle4922
6 жыл бұрын
"..I agree - you could run an additional conductor along with it and bolt it to the frame, then tie the other end somehow to the driver ground. ..." Cool. (By HID I mean hps and mh, to be clear) I'm probably going to want to remotely wire, so I'll do that. How long have/can you extend the output side and what gauge did you use?
@circle4922
6 жыл бұрын
Sweet. What wire did you use to extend the driver output to remote mount it? Is that solid core 18ga?
@LEDGardener
6 жыл бұрын
It's 18 gauge stranded, which is not ideal, but works well if you tin it.
@jollygreengiant7070
7 жыл бұрын
why do they call them flesh cutters?? what flesh are you cutting!!! lol I call that a skinning knife. 😁 nice build by the way!
@ronlabass8173
7 жыл бұрын
flush cutter
@jollygreengiant7070
7 жыл бұрын
I know what he's talking about.. it was a joke to Ledgardener. the Canadian flush sounds like flesh eh? 😄
@LEDGardener
7 жыл бұрын
Ha! You're such a hoser.
@Onelovej
6 жыл бұрын
LED Gardener brother great build I'm thinking of bulilding a led to replace my Dr chm 630w in my 5x5 any suggestions?
@crawfish3898
6 жыл бұрын
There should be a way to attach a grounding wire to the driver. I haven't seen this driver first hand so I can't be exactly sure. But you should just be a able to run a grounding wire from the frame to driver. Simply drill a small hole a attach a green coated wire anywhere on your frame. It's well built so any contact point is same. But grounding is important because if there is any fault and you have an open circuit the metal could get hot enough to melt.
@circle4922
6 жыл бұрын
Yea, just as you said. Connect a wire (terminated) to the driver however ya want, and connect the other end to the frame of the fixture. That said, Stephen from HLG said you don't have to ground the DC side. Then *again*, just last week on the GML show he mentioned their issue trying to get ETL certification on the HLG 550 because they (ETL) wants it to be grounded even when the driver is removed. So really, to me, there's still no clear answer on what is recommended/required.
@rikkilee9409
7 жыл бұрын
hey bud, i have a bunch of quantum lights and they are awesome. the problem is the seller,robin is MIA. any ideas how i can get parts for 2 lights that are down? robins phone is out of service. thanks rick
@LEDGardener
7 жыл бұрын
I have always just emailed HLG to get a hold of him. I'm sure he'll get back to you.
@circle4922
6 жыл бұрын
Anyone:... Re: grounding, remote grounding: For the ground conductor, at the driver, could we remove one of the very small screws in the side of the Mean Well driver and then re-attach it through a ring terminal (attached to a ground conductor)? Or should we not remove one of those screws even just for that purpose?
@drksun
6 жыл бұрын
It's DC voltage, earth ground is for AC.. if the case was energized it has nothing to do with earth ground, the power supply has short circuit protection. Also all the high voltage is sealed inside the meanwell driver, externally you're exposed to 24v DC
@mikesteve3266
7 жыл бұрын
Good video. I have 4 cob 's. I need to build yet. I have a 4 * 4 , and just bought the hlg 250 xl. And have 4 cob 3590 200w. was going to do a linear frame . What would you suggest for the size of frame to help cover the 4*4.
@LEDGardener
7 жыл бұрын
Cool Breeze hmm, with only 4 COBs to mount along with the 250XL, you should be able to do this pretty cheaply since you don't need a full square. I feel like I'd have to draw this out though. Please make a thread in the forum if you'd like and we'll get you sorted!
@EdReibsamen
6 жыл бұрын
Yeah I have 4 3590 200 watt cree's and 4x4 space, I guess they should be spaced further than what you have in this vid? So my frame should be larger than 20x20? Is what you have the furthest you would want to spread them out due to amount of watts or lumens or whatever for the intensity of the light?
@tkdmaste12
7 жыл бұрын
Thanks again!!
@braleyshardwoodcustoms8584
5 жыл бұрын
Brother as a professional cabinet and trim journey man anytime u cut a metal type of material with a wood cutting blade all u have to do is take the blade off and put it on backwards, that's misleading your audience , however ur led game is superb!!
@rageland342
6 жыл бұрын
For grow grow 115cm x 77cm x 160 cm what size you recomend for the frame ? I will use 6 Cobs 50w
@greenleafgrow6257
5 жыл бұрын
Awesome man check out my optic 1xl grow so far
@Bryams02
5 жыл бұрын
I have these heat sinks at some qb288 lm301b what should I do 😂
@sweetness6048
4 жыл бұрын
You have the wrong heatsink 😂
@illegalmexicain
5 жыл бұрын
What's the total watts consumption per led and the watts output ?
@braleyshardwoodcustoms8584
5 жыл бұрын
Pay attention to the current and voltage and milliamps , watts and lumens are for flashlights
@alexandregonet8528
6 жыл бұрын
Im about to do a build With 6 vero 29. I Was wondering if you put lenses on that after or you just keep it like that? I have some Silicon lense from ledil 103 degree what do you think about them?
@LEDGardener
6 жыл бұрын
+Alexandre Gonet depends on the space and the height usually. In a tent, they’re not as important.
@alexandregonet8528
6 жыл бұрын
LED Gardener thanks for your response! I have a Quick question again lol. I have 6 vero29 gen 7 se version D witch run à 37.6 v and 2100ma at à wattage of 79. I have a hlg-480. How do you recommend I wire my 6 cobs to get max efficiency. Just the 6 in series (is supposed to work but I wonder if its not to much to the limit) thanks for your time. Really enjoyed your vid! Keep the good job!
@PoulJulle-wb9iu
5 жыл бұрын
price of this?
@gamercatsz5441
6 жыл бұрын
can the frame be build from wood? The frame should not be grounded if it is in wood, correct? Can I 3d print a plastic frame or is this a bad idea?
@brandonc6648
6 жыл бұрын
Gamercatsz depends how hot your light get, what type of led. But in general people usually don't do that. Why I'm not sure. Maybe cause wood is flammable is my guess. But if low heat I wouldn't be worried. Same goes with plastic, unless it's something engineered for that purpose
@gamercatsz5441
6 жыл бұрын
I ordered 4x (54w) Optic 1 for a 3by3 tent. Can't you get wood that is treated for heat and build a frame out of that?
@brandonc6648
6 жыл бұрын
If your just passively cooling, and not active. I don't think I would put right on wood. They can get over 100° f depending how hard running them
@gamercatsz5441
6 жыл бұрын
Yeah they are passivly cooled, they are not the official optic 1, I ordered them from China (they are exactly the same produc/same components tho) I would not mount them on the wood, but use a rope ratchet on the frame, so i can adjust height. I might just skip the frame altogether and just find a way to hang them on my tent ceiling. Thanks for your imput tho, sir, much appreciated.
@LiteralHitter
5 жыл бұрын
DRIVERLESS COBS ARE THE FUTURE. NO POINT BRAINWASHING ANYMORE, THE TRUTH IS OUT THERE. AND AS FAR AS THE DIODES GO THE CHEAPER THE BETTER! GOT MY 2KW GROW GOING FOR 500$.
@JIMMYjfm
5 жыл бұрын
I would like to apply this design to a 18 x 100 watt driverless cobs for a 4ft x 8ft tent but I am not an electrician is there any tips you could give me for using this design and tips for wiring the driverless c o b s
@JIMMYjfm
5 жыл бұрын
Can you give me any tips for using this design for driverless cobs
@JIMMYjfm
5 жыл бұрын
Need wiring tips
@LiteralHitter
5 жыл бұрын
@@JIMMYjfm First of all, you don't need 18 cobs for that size of flower room if that's what is the wattage of individual cobs(100W). However you could use a dimmer for each one or groups to lower the power down about 25% on average. This way you could use 100% power on thicker or taller plants. Or you could use 13 of those in 5 rows, 3-2-3-2-3 formation for best coverage, 100% power. The best design is NO DESIGN. Every cob has to be 100% movable and controllable for optimum coverage unless you're growing same size and structure clones commercially. About wiring, I designed solderless system using hard plastic and two small screws for each cob so I can replace them without changing the wires... hate soldering.
@Sweet_Dreams53
7 жыл бұрын
what wood 3x3 cost me to build
@LEDGardener
7 жыл бұрын
Tracy Scott-Brown you'd need 3x 8' lengths of 1/8" x 3/4" x 3/4" angle for this, so whatever that costs you plus a handful of screws.
@Sweet_Dreams53
7 жыл бұрын
so i wood need 6 3590 what size mw
@LEDGardener
7 жыл бұрын
HLG-320H-C1400
@Sweet_Dreams53
7 жыл бұрын
thank you you have ig
@LEDGardener
7 жыл бұрын
Yup, same name
@vanniyo8988
3 жыл бұрын
Honestly you could have just used wood instead of putting a heat sink on pretty much a heatsink
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