The rod should be 20mm + or - 1mm. You can also greatly eliminate the need to use a hammer to take the flex out by welding a strip of 1/4" X 1" steel down the length of the rod . This makes it more ridgid and adds spline support that helps eliminate flex. Keep the videos coming. Not much info on CETME builds anymore for whatever reason.....I guess us "little people" arent supposed to have them and shouldn't be privy to such information.
@jimmy_jack
2 жыл бұрын
Let's hope these videos don't get taken down then lol
@allothecheekclapper
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for posting these. I'm working on one of these kits and most of the tutorials on this are like 10 years old and 240p. So these vids are a godsend
@jimmy_jack
2 жыл бұрын
Your welcome brother
@MiLiberator
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for 411 on the jig my man. I just bought me a cheap welder from harbor freight and can finally tackle this project. Keep the updates coming!
@swojal1493
Жыл бұрын
@jimmy Burnett cetme c parts kits are dirt cheap tho so its no biggy
@justinpennington7682
2 жыл бұрын
Best homemade jig I have seen
@texasRoofDoctor
Жыл бұрын
Great stuff
@Adirondneck
2 жыл бұрын
I copied your design before seeing this video. I used a piece of 1/4 plate to weld the angle iron to, which caused some flex but I stopped and welded a support before it flexed too much. I cut the opening for the ejection port way too big, but whatever..it worked. Didn't even need a press just used 1/4x20 stainless allthread on each end. a 3/4" rod I drilled with a drill press. I actually used the jig to hold the bar to drill it straight in the drill press as well. using pieces of the old receiver to center the bar in the jig. So you set the bolt gap with the trunnion outside of the receiver, and then welded the trun in the receiver? my barrel pin holes aren't lining up between the receiver and trunnion..which isn't a big deal if I never have to change the barrel..but thats a ways off. I still need to figure out a barrel because I can't find a cetme barrel at the moment and i'm still straightening and making my receiver and BCG mesh nice and smooth. a couple questions.. Are you going to cut up the Cetme trigger housing to convert it? can you do a vid explaining the shelf and the FCG conversion? I like the way you do things, man! I tac welded up my receiver except for the front half where the trunnion is..I tacked the rear half of the mag housing but I did not install the magazine catch..and I'm having trouble figuring out how to install that without cutting the welds out
@jimmy_jack
2 жыл бұрын
I just bought a semi trigger pack instead of converting the old one. Also yes I do headspace them outside of the receiver. It doesn't seem to cause any problems. I also personally just weld over the barrel pin hole because mine didnt line up either. The hole they had on the receiver just became one of my plug weld holes lol
@jimmy_jack
2 жыл бұрын
Also I did have to cut the hole bigger in the receiver for the mag catch. But only cut the top part on the hole to make it bigger because the mag won't fit tight if you do the bottom. And remember don't install the lever because I think the atf doesn't allow that
@shawnwillis7561
Жыл бұрын
@@jimmy_jack you can install the lever. The semi shelf covers up the hole for the pin and then you weld it over the pin hole. You just can't drill the hole to accept a retainer pin and not put on the semi shelf
@jakehoyt497
9 ай бұрын
on the off chance you see this, what was the hardest part about the entire build?
@jimmy_jack
9 ай бұрын
For me it was just getting the bolt carrier to go smoothly through the receiver. But this is probably because my jig I used was not perfect. If you have a good jig or just buy a receiver the hardest part is probably getting headspace right
@grayman7622
2 жыл бұрын
Any ideas on where to pick up the receiver blanks
@luketimmer6108
2 жыл бұрын
Just Google it
@epicgangnamstyle8783
Жыл бұрын
I picked mine up from Robert RTG. Apparently they're not correct to original CETMEs and you'll need to mess with the holes a little. The barrel pin hole doesn't line up for some reason
@justinbouvier132
Жыл бұрын
Look up HK flats for which ever model you want
@rocksnot952
Жыл бұрын
How far apart did you set the angle iron?
@tbone5040
Жыл бұрын
He used the demilled front trunnion part with the old receiver skin on it to set the space. I'm assuming you're looking for a measurement,though. Might want to check out Weapons Guild,a forum for this type of stuff. There's a whole subsection on Cetmes.
@rocksnot952
Жыл бұрын
@@tbone5040 OH, I have another demilled trunnion. I can just measure that. Smacking myself in the forehead...
@tbone5040
Жыл бұрын
@@rocksnot952 Dont feel bad. I didn't realized this was a solution until I watched this vid.
@therougeshoppingcart9707
2 жыл бұрын
How did you install the barrel without a press? just a curiosity.
@jimmy_jack
2 жыл бұрын
I used a piece of brass on the muzzle end of the barrel and hit the trunnion
@therougeshoppingcart9707
2 жыл бұрын
@@jimmy_jack ahh i see, and have some more questions i am building one as of now tell me can i use a unistrut and a 3/4 inch cold rolled bar and it work just as well? i have a 20 ton press so i wont be needing a hammer for the middle? and can you go into detail on headspacing? is it jsut the run of the mill headspace beside bolt gapping and cocking tube gap? and you said its about a razor blades width for the gap?
@jimmy_jack
2 жыл бұрын
@@therougeshoppingcart9707 yes I've heard that a unistrut piece works just as well. You probably won't need to hammer the middle if you have a press but you might have to do a little tapping on the front and back because once it's folded there probably won't be enough room for your press. As far as headspacing the first step is to get the barrel pressed into the trunnion far enough so that the bolt is clipped onto the shell and the shell is in the chamber. The way it works is that when the bolt closes the 2 rollers come out and act as the locking lugs like on any other rifle's bolt. So you need to have the barrel pressed in the trunnion to where the bolt closes and the rollers come out and they are tight to the grooves that are inside your trunnion. So when you get it close you will notice that the bolt gap gets bigger as you press the barrel in farther. This means that the bolt is beginning it's journey back through the receiver to cycle a new round. It's basically pushing on the rollers from the recoil pressure until they are fully unlocked and the bolt opens up and cycles a new round. So the bigger the bolt gap means you will have a faster recoil and the smaller the gap means you will have a shorter but lighter recoil. It should be a little less than a razor blade width but it would still be safe I'm sure. But if you have too much gap the shell would probably explode outside the chamber midcycle. And if you have too little a bolt gap it will either not eject or the bullet casing will deform pretty badly inside the trunnion. So once again as the shell is coming out of the chamber the bolt gap will be getting bigger so you need to press the barrel in with the shell in the chamber and the bolt in place until the bolt gap starts getting bigger and then check with something thin like a razor blade. I hope I answered your question.
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