I've never had the opportunity to throw SOTAR so many likes in one day! 😎
@joelatkinson2080
2 ай бұрын
These shorter videos are great and packed with valuable information. Thanks for doing these.
@calebdoner
2 ай бұрын
I really like these short form videos on specific topics. I can binge watch them, or go find specific information later easily.
@dancarter7009
2 ай бұрын
This has been the best start to a new week in LARGE part to all the SOTAR videos! Thank you guys for all the work you put into getting these out, absolutely love them! 🤙🏻
@mavrikmavrik3032
2 ай бұрын
I started to use this for bedding my barrels. Hard to tell is effectiveness but glad to see others, that know more than me, doing it.
@montanaplease
20 күн бұрын
The Loctite 620 is insanely expensive. Smallest bottle is like $27 and probably wouldn’t be enough to do one barrel. The more parts I buy to complete this home build of mine along with the proper tools the more I wish I had bought a complete reputable upper. I cannot believe how much money I now have into this thing
@JimyoVibration
2 ай бұрын
Loctite sells an activator if you are a pro and need to save time. Sotar thug life. Hi Tem, Hi Rudy.
@5jjt
2 ай бұрын
Loctite sells a primer that allows many of Loctite's formulas to harden because many of their formulas won't cure properly on their own due to no access to the bare metal. Manynformulas need access to the bare metal to harden. Is this what you're referring to?
@JimyoVibration
2 ай бұрын
@@5jjt I think they have both. 7452 and 7649. That’s cool you knew that, most don’t.
@russr
2 ай бұрын
I've always just used a bit of heat. A small pocket propane torches more than plenty to get the peace hot enough for it to instantly cure.
@m4rvinmartian
2 ай бұрын
*I know this is for 620, but I like to post this everywhere:* *_Red brake cleaner, loosens Red Loctite._* So, don't fear using Red on small parts, just put some RED brake cleaner on it, let it sit for 15 min or so.
@ripdoinksinamish
3 күн бұрын
Make sure to use dechlorinated brake cleaner to avoid stripping the finish off of your parts.
@hordboy
2 ай бұрын
Works great to secure FSB’s when using set screws instead of taper pins.
@DominicZelenak
2 ай бұрын
I was about to ask about this. I have a few set screw fsbs. Does it hold up over time? How do you remove them? Heat? acetone?
@hordboy
2 ай бұрын
@@DominicZelenak has held up for me just fine, in the context of CMP service rifle matches. Many people do this instead of pins. But if it’s a duty rifle getting bashed around, I don’t know. After getting the sight aligned I mark and mill small countersinks in the barrel for the set screws. Then reinstall the FSB and glue everything tight. (Use the really thin retaining compound) It takes a good bit of heat to get the sight loose, some caution is needed there.
@johngalt176
2 ай бұрын
You have a years worth of videos out today. Much appreciated!
@tonyb8791
2 ай бұрын
😊 620 is a good thing
@johngalt176
2 ай бұрын
It may not be worth the effort but there is a way to true the sharpening stones via fine abrasive cabide sand and a thick glass platten. Granite surface plates would work but I wouldn’t want to risk damaging the surface. Another method is to true the concave surface by using another stone.
@6mm108
2 ай бұрын
Would it make any sense to use 620 between the gas block and barrel; is it too hot or do the curved surfaces inherently seal well enough that it isn't necessary? Gas tube into the gas block? On a similar note, what about bedding an optic mount to the rail? That interface is as important as any for precision.
@thomasrouh2258
2 ай бұрын
Love your vidoes.....Is it ok to use an EP grease on the barrel extension if you plan on changing out the barrel some day? or is it better to consider one and done? Basically use a brand new upper with the new barrel?
@NvTwist
2 ай бұрын
Question cause I hadn’t imagined retaining fluid for High Heat applications. I use the general purpose 680 compound and to release the compound you apply heat. How do you release the the bond with the high heat 620? Gonna at a bottle of 620 to my top bench. Thank you in advance and this video definitely made me a new subscriber.
@SharekGadd
2 ай бұрын
Stellar info friend!
@Fadaar
2 ай бұрын
must say ive never thought about using loctite as a fay seal
@bingethinker791
2 ай бұрын
What did the armorers use in the 1960s when they built these rifles? Did they have the array of chemicals we have?
@savagegentleman3583
2 ай бұрын
Chad, could you share with us which stone and grit you use for carrier keys? I can only find 1/2” blocks from Brownells and the such. Thanks in advance for any assistance.
@chancehavlik
2 ай бұрын
I was recommended to use Loctite 680 on barrel extensions by Mike at Criterion. Is there a difference between 620 vs 680?
@97mustangcobra
21 күн бұрын
I have been trying to compare and made this based on data on mfg website. 620 seems to be for larger gaps- min .006 in. I doubt gap that large in upper? Confusing for sure. Is there any actual data, with same gun without bedding or shimming and then after. Precision data of shot groups? Gap fill(mm) (in) temp(F) 609 0.025-0.15 0.001-0.006 300 620 0.15-0.25 0.006-0.010 450 680 0.05-0.38 0.002-0.015 ?
@zact9941
2 ай бұрын
@sotar what adhesive would you use for optics mounts? I used blue loctite and the screws still keep coming loose.
@99cobra2881
2 ай бұрын
I learned about vibratite VC-3 from ELR shooters years ago they were all shooting large caliber rifles with some serious amounts of recoil. It is awesome stuff it doesnt take much on the threads to work
@rl4416
2 ай бұрын
620 for the screws on the safety , mag release ...?
@BullseyeBallistics-kf1jw
2 ай бұрын
No.
@derekbrown3298
2 ай бұрын
I normally us aeroshell instead of this would I be better using this then?
@BullseyeBallistics-kf1jw
2 ай бұрын
Yes.
@TheSavanto
2 ай бұрын
Why 620 over 609?
@powerbagle
2 ай бұрын
620 is high heat.
@TheSavanto
2 ай бұрын
@@powerbagle but is that high of heat needed
@powerbagle
2 ай бұрын
@@TheSavanto yes, the barrel gets hot if you shoot multiple rounds.
@powerbagle
2 ай бұрын
yes, the barrel gets hot if you shoot multiple rounds.
@TheSavanto
2 ай бұрын
@@powerbagle 609 is rated at 350* and 620 is good for 450*. A 20 rd mag dump will get the barrel close to 1000* so is it completely useless or does the extra 100* rating really matte and make a difference?
@marine6680
2 ай бұрын
I believe this is the stuff that BCM uses on their low profile gas blocks. They use high temp red loctite on the set screws and retaining compound betweenthe barrel and gas block. It might not be "permanent", but it is a pain to break free. I seen people need to hold a torch on it for at least a couple minutes. I needed to replace a barrel and was reusing the barrel nut sp i needed to pull the gas block off the old barrel. Holding a torch to a barrel and gas block for two whole minutes as not being good for the barrel. It could overheat the steel to the point it loses temper. I used a heat gun as a less intense heat source, to see if it would work. It took over ten minutes holding 600-700 degree heat on the gas block to get it to start coming loose.
@BullseyeBallistics-kf1jw
2 ай бұрын
That's why I use Rocksett because it's water soluble. I soak my barrel into water and dawn dish soap for 3 hrs and it breaks free easily. The dawn helps it break down faster.
@marine6680
2 ай бұрын
@BullseyeBallistics-kf1jw For a duty grade rifle, I can understand why they use the retaining compound. It ensures a seal and that the gas block will stay in place no matter what. I get the desire people have for a pinned gas block, but BCM's method is about as good, as long as you do not intend to ever remove it. I looked up all the spec sheets and testing data for retaining compound and high temp loctite... It included a chart detailing temperature and time to failure before it would stop providing benefit. Both required several hours at 600-700 degrees, with times reduced to several minutes around 1200 degrees. I can't remember the specifics, but that is the jist I do remember. The upshot of what o gathered is that it would take a significant amount of continuous full auto use to approach the limits of the material. Heat damage is accumulative, but I suspect that you will need a new barrel before you get to the point that the stuff is not providing any useful benefit. Someone shooting conservatively or only occasionally heating the barrel to anything near 600 degrees during rapid fire segments of training... Will never have to worry. And anyone firing full auto enough to heat up the barrel to 600-700 degrees for any extended period, will end up shooting out the barrel before the material breaks down significantly.
@BullseyeBallistics-kf1jw
2 ай бұрын
@@marine6680 Do they use retaining compound on the inside of the gas block? I didn't know that. I just let carbon build up seal any leaks for me lol
@marine6680
2 ай бұрын
@BullseyeBallistics-kf1jw Yes... they apply retaining compound between the barrel and gas block, and then put high temp red loctite on the set screws. The set screws are the knurled type as well. It is about as bomb proof as you can get to a pinned block without pinning the thing. They also use an interferance press fit on the gas block. Which requires you to cool the metal to help losen the fit. All that combined makes the gas block pretty much permanent to anything other than a dedicated effort to remove it. Heat might soften the retaining compound a bit, but the heat makes the gas block fit tighter to the barrel. I used a rag soaked in water to keep the heat from traveling in the barrel, and limit the expansion aspect, and after the compound finally got soft, I still needed to use a mallet to remove the block... It took a lot of hits and decent force behind them. I have used retaining compound for other things, like holding a bearing in place on a smooth shaft. One of those times, it turned out I messed up the placement. I tried to remove it and fix the issue... I didn't have a heat source, but it was a small component, and I thought it would break loose... Nope, the outer bearing race failed. I was using a hammer and sleeve that fit around the shaft, to give a sharp wack to the bearing. The bearing broke, but the inner race was still firmly attached. I ended up needing to get replacement parts. Fortunately, they were not expensive.
@BullseyeBallistics-kf1jw
2 ай бұрын
@marine6680 Dang, that sounds rough. I use those knurled screws as well from Trajectory Arms. They're shorter too which I like.
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